Before diving with it you might try it at home first while standing in the shower or bath.
For personal fit you can cut/shape the contactarea of the She-P to fit best for your body. Remove only little pieces as you would do with drysuit seals. Cutting off too much is a problem 😉
Attach adhesive on the contact area. A small volume is enough but make sure it’s around the whole area and not just little dots of adhesive. Some more glue at the back is important.
If you use Hollister spray: Spray on, spread into an even film on the whole ‘wing’ area, wait till tacky (this can take a few minutes) and place – back first, as far back as basically possible without covering the anus.
Remove the She-P and put it in a small plastic bag until you can clean it. Be careful while removing the She-P. There might still be a little pee in so make sure you keep the tube-part closed while removing it. Clean the p-valve with vinegar or warm water with disinfectant. Let the She-P soak in warm water with disinfectant for 5 minutes and rinse well. Smith&Nephew remover wipes, Skinister adhesive remove (60ml) or another brand like Allkare work fine to remove adhesive. Be gentle with rubbing to prevent the soft silicone to tear.
Can you keep the layer of glue on for several days?
– Yes you can. Some even leave it on for 3 weeks. Then clean your She-P every day with water and alcohol to keep it hygienic. Put a new layer of glue on every day, the She-P will be very sticky. Afterwards: You can put a couple of adhesive removal towelettes on top of the device, and then seal it in a Ziploc bag for a few hours of a night. Then use another towelette to wipe off the adhesive. It comes off fairly easily that way. Be very careful not to tear the She-P.
Reaction from customer:
“No problem to leave it 3 weeks and use it every day. I rinse it with water each day and let it dry properly before I apply the next layer of glue.
When I remove old glue I just try to peel the old glue off (but always careful to avoid damage). When you use whatever glue remover, make sure to rinse rests of it and clean the she-p with soap before using it again.”
Reaction from customer: Bandaid effect after about 4 days makes removal interesting ouch. If you are using spray glue Hollister do a glue removal spray I cover it in. This and then put in ziplock back for a few hours or overnight and it cleans off easily.
Reaction from customer: I have discovered that make up remover for waterproof mascara works on the Urobond glue (I find that it works best on the she – p but naturally also on the skin). Make sure it’s the mixed oil/cleaner formula, the ones you shake before use. Example
Reaction from customer:
I was advised to put two adhesive wipes onto the device and seal everything in a Ziploc bag for a while. Then remove and use another wipe or two to clean everything. I don’t know how that would work for a very dirty device, but it works really well after I finish using it.
Available in USA
TRIAD adhesive tape remover pads. Use alcohol wipes to ‘sterilize’ the She-P afterwards, or just before use
NOTE: Use untested adhesives at your own risk, some adhesives contain chemicals that may damage your She-P. DO NOT use Detachol adhesive remover to clean your She-P. Detachol turnes Hollister spray and Urobond IV into a gummy and weak non-sticking product and makes your She-P useless. It’s extremely difficult or even impossible to remove the Detachol from the silicone.
For one or another reason peeing in a wetsuit seems easier than peeing in a drysuit. You really need to focus to start peeing and it can take a while before it workes. So yes, it definitely needs practice.
It’s the same for putting the She-P in place. After using it a few times it will go very fast and takes you 2-3 minutes to install the She-P at the dive site.
Reactions from users: – The pre pee before getting in the water is a huge part for me too. Once there is no air in the tube its far easier to pee.Then in the water while maintaining trim, I add in a bit more air in the drysuit ( and take air out of BCD) so the drysuit doesn’t squeeze too much around my pelvis. It took me a few dives before I got it.
– I started off by having to stop mid-dive, go vertical, pee, then continue dive. The vertical position was easier to start the flow. Also took a while.
I also tried pushing hard, but all that did was make the she-p come unstuck. All the pre-dive pees everyone is mentioning will also help.
– I need to grab a hold of something. As soon as I hold onto a rock or whatever, things start to flow.
– I also have to stop finning and concentrate. The first pee I really had to push hard to get everything going, and once the first drops leaked out it was all fine. Don’t be surprised if you feel warmth on your tummy. I was convinced I’d wet my undergarments when in fact it was just the pee in the tube that felt nice and warm.
Skinister Medical Adhesive Spray is skin safe glue designed to adhere silicone prosthetics. Designed for medical uses, visual effects, and cosplay costumes.
How to apply Skinister adhesive
Prepare your skin by washing with soap and water and allow your skin to fully dry.
Spray Skinister Medical Adhesive to the She-P. A thin coat of adhesive is usually more effective than a thick coat.
Allow Skinister Medical Adhesive to fully dry before applying to skin. The adhesive is suspended in solvent, which needs a few minutes to evaporate.
Press and hold the She-P firmly against the skin. Skinister Medical Adhesive is a pressure sensitive adhesive and maximum strength is achieved by applying pressure for several minutes.
This brush-on Silicone Adhesive is a pressure sensitive adhesive specifically formulated for unique bonding applications.
Hollister Spray (does not longer excist, Skinister takes in place)
Look at Laura’s video how to apply and clean the She-P (this video is about the Hollister spray)
Few tips from users for the Hollister Spray:
When using the holister Spray, spray over a toilet or on top of a dedicated towel to help with splatter.
let the first layer dry COMPLETELY before adding a second
Let the second layer mostly dry before applying. It should be tacky to the touch.
Clean excess glue off after a couple dives. I’ve had a couple issues with too much glue preventing a good stick.
Comments of users about the Urobond V:
”Use two layers and let the first layer dry well before applying the second. I use a square of cardboard with a cutout for the snorkel to catch the overspray. It works well and if you use an old single use shopping bag you get more than one use from the grocery store and you don’t have to keep cutting cardboard pieces”
Once you spray the SheP, wait for some minutes and then put it on. The same as if you had the first layer of urobond with a new jar. Then, everything is the same, except that you won’t have glue on you anymore . Also, the spray lasts forever, it doesn’t get nasty as the last bits of urobond.
First, make sure you have uro-bond V, mistakenly got uro-bond III one time and I could never get it to adhere. With the correct version of uro-bond, I like to put a layer on the night before, then another 15 or so minutes before you apply it. I have also started leaving the old glue on, which honestly kinda weird me out, but it gets so tacky that I have had no issues with it sticking properly since I tried not removing the glue completely each time. When doing this I don’t need to add a layer of glue the night before, since it already has glue, I just add it to any thin spots in the morning before applying.
you don’t need to put it on your skin directly if you don’t want to, just the She-P then wait a couple minutes and then put it on and adjust as needed
I never remove all the old glue. I never put a layer on the night before. I put a thin layer of Urobond on the She-p and by the time I’ve removed my pants it’s ready to put on. I find skin prep is very important. Grooming, clean, dry skin. No lotions or oils allowed.More info in the Facebook She-P Group. Join us!
Hair removal on the place where the She-P contacts the skin is important to get a proper seal which prevents for leakages. You don’t have to do it every day though and you don’t have to shave everything. About once a week works well enough.
Comment from a user: ”Razors with the ‘comfort strips’ (for less irritation) can leave a residue that is very anti-sticky… Same with ‘moisturizing soaps’. Stick with something super super simple with no fancy oils or whatever. Dial, ivory, the more rudimentary and fewer bells and whistles the better.”
Yes you have a lightly “stuffy” feeling during the first dives. Although it’s only a small device women are not used to have anything in that area. And same as when wearing a diaper, you will feel the She-P too. For this reason the She-P is made from a soft and flexible material and doesn’t give pressure on your skin or bones. After using it for a while you will get used to it though. Swimming, driving a car and scootering are absolutely no problem while wearing a She-P.
In the beginning you might do it at home or in a restroom because you need some more time installing it. After using it for a while it takes you probable 2-3 minutes for preparation and installing the She-P. Some girls prepare the She-P, adhesive and tape while standing next to their car (with the drysuit hanging on it to have some privacy ;-))
If you choose to install the She-P at home it’s more comfortable to stay away from very thight jeans.
You can wear your She-P during long dives or even when you’re doing multiple dives a day. Install it in the morning and remove it after the last dive. If you want to pee in between dives you can do it the “male-way”: look for a tree and pee while standing :-). Standing in the water or floating on your belly at the surface works fine too.
On the contrary, some suitsqueeze makes everything stay in place perfect. I always use a small sanitary diaper on top in case there is a small leakage. Just test it as soon as you enter the water. Then you know if everything is in place and can correct if needed.
There is no maximum number of times, you can use the She-P for months or years. The most important part is to keep it very clean and disinfect after every use. Keep the She-P away from direct sunlight as that will affect the material.
Be careful when you remove the She-P from your skin to prevent tears.
The routing is exactly like guys who point their package “north”. There is more than enough hose standard with the Halcyon streamlined valve to reach where it needs to go. For convenience sake if women feel that connecting is difficult (and not having to rummage in your drawers quite so much) I have been recommending either a quick disconnect or a 4″ piece of scrap neoprene or silicon tubing as an extension if women feel the length on the She-P is an issue, also in theory this spares wear on the outlet of the She-P.
Example of hoserouting (on the inside of the dry suit)
Placement of Quick disconnect 4″ of norprene tube, notice with the barbed fittings back in play, no need for extra tape This works MUCH better… Super easy to hook up, and plastic parts away from girl parts and pubic bone.
She-P side with “Flow through” connection, Suit side still on suspender. Do NOT forget to hook up!
For girls getting a bruise on pubic bone from the device; make sure your buckle on their DUI suit crotch strap is not lined up directly with the device.
For women getting a rash from the norprene hose, either tuck shirt behind device or poke hole in back up diaper if you are using one,
otherwise use ‘boy’ style long johns 🙂
You can use two strings and put one on the left and one on the right on the She-P tube. Pull the strings high up between your butt.
Use some extra tape on the back.
Put the normal amount of spray on your She-P and put some extra at the backside (with your finger) on your skin.
You now have two layers on the backside.
Be sure your skin and She-P are completely dry, no residues of water or remover solutions.Some information from a long therm user:
1. Glue is sticky. Don’t be shy. Glue on both surfaces (you and She-P) is more effective than glue on one surface. Give it time to ‘cure’.2. Sticking at the back is my ‘weak’ point too. I like to hold the She-P firmly in place at the back when I stand up from the squatting application position. The She-P will be making a strong reverse U shape as it gets wedged right up in place when your legs are together and you’re standing upright.3. Do a pressure test when application is complete. Gently squeeze cup then put your finger over the tube. If you’ve got a seal the cup won’t pop back out. I’ll even do a little jiggle dance while doing the test. Because it’s good to start each diving day with a boogie, and because if my She-P application can’t make it through a little jiving at this point, then there’s no way it will make it through a full day of lugging tanks, diving etc. I want a stick that’s going to last a solid 10 hours of activity.4. Do not give up. You’ve got this.
Comments of users: – It seems like the first and easiest thing to try is to shower and clean up day of, and change my soap to something with no fancy moisturizers.
– I ordered the skin prep pads as well
– Razors with the ‘comfort strips’ (for less irritation) can leave a residue that is very anti-sticky… Same with ‘moisturizing soaps’. Stick with something super super simple with no fancy oils or whatever. Dial, ivory, the more rudimentary and fewer bells and whistles the better.
– layer up, im cheap and i find it sticks better if i dont remove the glue as often. I have had the same issue but now i bend the shep at the backend, spread as wide as possible and make sure that it is stuck there before sticking the rest on. It has helped.
– For me it works best when hair is about approx. 3-10 days long after shaving. It makes a perfect seal. Yes, of course it hurts a little bit when taking it off, but I am willing to take that upon me in order to get worry-free-never-leak dives
No need to fear infections – they are rare and as long as you clean the she-P (water, maybe soap too) and the hose (water), let everything dry before the next use (esp. the she-P – just leave it somewhere where all of the residual moist can evaporate) and pee frequently when in use.
Nooo vinegar- it destroys the duck valve of some p-valves. This happened to me two times after following the advice of rinsing the hose with a mixture of water and vinegar. When the duck valve does not work properly you will have an inflow of water from outside. This in turn brings lots of bacteria and may be too much for your she-p to skin glue connection
I flush through with water, then close the valve, pour a solution of methylated spirits and white vinegar in a ratio of 3:1, hold it in the tube for a minute, then open the valve and flush through several more times with water. For the the she-p itself, I rinse in water, then soak in a solution with sterilising tablets overnight.
I use isopropyl alcohol. Others use Steramine. No reason to be scared if you keep things clean.
Just flush with water or water with a bit of soap in it, after each use. For SheP, I use soap and hot water, then a spray of alcohol.
The key is to pee when you get into the water with the She-P hooked up and you should see the bubbles of air get pushed out. This should clear the majority of air out of the device reservoir. If your valve is ‘balanced’ then it will equalize with your suit (meaning air will go into hose from the balancing valve) but this is OK because the pee already in the She-P device should prevent ‘squeeze’.
If you use a scrotch strap on your diving harness, you might loosen it a bit. And also make sure you don’t dive in too much squeeze in your dry suit.
The She-P is warranted one year against manufacturing defects , from date of purchase. For warranty service and assistance, you can contact the place of purchase to arrange for replacement of the product.
This topic has been discussed many times over the past 10 years but because of concerns about the mounting piles of plastic choking our landfills and oceans we have decided as a manufacturer to not pursue this course of action. We totally understand that a cheap disposable would lower the bar for entry (did the market research) but came to the conclusion that protecting the planet is more important to us than sales.
If you have piercings down below, it’s not necessary to remove them. The reservoir part is pretty big and unless it’s a big piercing, it would be no problem. A vertical hood piercing is no problem either.
Comment of a She-P user: ”I’ve used a She P with multiple piercings and never removed them, it depends where you’re pierced. If you had anything on the outer sides then they would need to remove them, otherwise it would be pretty tricky to pull the She-P away from the skin with the glue stuck to your jewellery”
”You can wear for a whole (and even long) day, but I‘d definitely recommend to take it off for the night and rinse it with fresh water and wash yourself as every day.
You can be lazy when it comes to clean it from the glue layer. It sticks way better when you leave the glue just where it is and apply another layer the next day. It only necessary to remove old glue from time to time like every few weeks when it became a really thick layer – depends on how often you use it”
”I put it on in the morning at home, drive to the dive site, do the dives and then take it off in the evening when I’m back home. I don’t find it uncomfortable at all. At home I rinse it under water, with soap, rinse it again, disinfect it and rinse it again with water. Until the next dive day. On holidays I have done so 2 weeks in a row. No problems”
”I’d worn mine for up to 12 hours several days in a row and I haven’t had any problems. I just make sure I rinse it with water as soon as I take it off and then wash it thoroughly as soon as I get home”
”I usually keep mine on for 6 to 8 hours at a time max. I put it on in the morning, go to the dive site, dive, and keep it on until I get back home”
”I wear it the whole day, then take it off and clean it in the evening. Start over the next day… I am not a scientist, but common sense tells me that longer would not be safe”
When you experience itchy or slightly burning skin after use of the She-P and removing/cleaning: you might try Skin protection barrier wipes or also called adhesive barrier wipes. There are several brands on the market, in wipes or spray.
A skin barrier provides a protective physical barrier between the skin and adhesive products, not only prevents skin irritation and skin damage.
They doesn’t affect the use of the Urobond or Hollister spray.
Some reactions from users: If you use skin prep, let it dry fully so that it can have intended effect. The skin preps are not to improve sticking unless specifically specified. Their purpose is the create a barrier between tape or adhesive and sensitive skin.
“skin prep wipes” do wonders for adhesion, removal & preventing skin irritation/problems with She Ps. My physical therapist told me never ever to use straight rubbing alcohol on the skin as it’s a terrible prep for adhesives & can cause skin rashes, etc.
This skin prep pad is no sting & it specifically says to use with “external catheters”. The regular skin prep pads are good too, they just sting slightly. These wipes create a protective barrier & give the glue a better base to adhere too. They also make the device easier to remove & most importantly protect delicate skin. https://www.amazon.com/…/B00…/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1…
Skin prep makes a micro-barrier between adhesive and the skin (in addition to cleaning) which can reduce the irritation that some folks have with adhesives. it is regularly used in the hospital setting to help protect skin from the adhesive of multiple frequent dressing changes after surgery or very delicate skin (such as face) from the tape and adhesives used during surgery.
I use the similar recommended skin prep wipes before applying the device creates a barrier between skin and glue and doesn’t stop stickiness, just stops/ reduced allergic reaction to glue , which you definitely don’t want and then found on skin after removing glue or post removing device and pre clean up then Bio-oil works really well.